a closeup of a rack of clothing featuring pink and neutral colored sweaters, blouses and jeans

You may have already conquered the feat of getting your initial samples made. Hooray! That was a journey, right? You just caught your breath and I’m here to say we are heading off to the next leg. We are going to add another layer and discuss different types of samples that will happen along your road to production.

You may have heard terms like TOP, PP, Fit samples being tossed around, and you are like- what the heck is all that about? Well my friend, we will get deep in it. If you are someone who loves processes and organization you are going to love these concepts.

Now this post is geared for those who are producing ready to wear garments. But I would be remiss if I failed to put something in for my home sewing brands out there. Peeps, as you follow along, keep in mind how these sample processes along the way can be applied to your own workflow.

Types of samples and their uses:

Counter sample/proto sample/ or salesman sample

These types of samples are developed really quickly and are typically used for larger fashion establishments as part of a presentation. The goal is something that looks like what the designer envisions and is pretty and saleable. Oftentimes they are made in a small size that looks good on a hanger. These samples are shown to buyers or used for merchandising meetings.

Fit samples

This is by far the most common and recognizable type of sample. You know this one already, I’m sure, but if you are new here, let’s review. Fit samples are made to confirm the look, fit, and functionality of each individual garment. At this stage the designer works closely with the pattern maker to fine tune the overall look and the pattern maker fine tunes the pattern so it is functional for a factory.

two people stand in front of table cutting out a pattern in black fabric with a tape measure in the foreground

Photo samples

Photo samples will be worn by models or photographed flat for websites or publications. These are tricky because of timing. Websites and publications typically need them for photographing even before the fit is 100% approved of the garment because of lead times for publication. This is why it’s always important to not change a design too dramatically from the original intent once the order is confirmed.

I once worked on a garment that was photographed for a catalog with a specific type of puffy sleeve. However, during the fit process the designer changed their mind and wanted a different style. The garment was already photographed and was laid out and on its way for printing. The customer who wanted that item in the catalog was sure to be in for a surprise!

Depending on who you are doing photo samples for, they may be using a specific size model and height so adjustments may have to be specifically made for them as well.

Pre-production samples

This is the sample stage where things should be coming together. Up until this point, substitutions could have been made for fabric, trims, color. But a pre-production sample (PP sample) should represent everything that production will be. It will be the last opportunity to pivot before starting production if something is not right. It should be made using the final fit approved pattern, in the correct fabric and color with the same bulk components that will be used in production.

I encourage you to treat this as a must for your brand. Pre-production samples are a critical last look before starting production.

Size run

A size run is a pre-production level garment made in every single size. Generally this is not typically requested for every single style you are producing, especially if you are doing small quantities. Even large retailers save this for only the biggest orders.

In my experience and opinion as someone who has taken part in serious size run fittings and lived through small entrepreneurial experiences- not a whole lot of new information is gleaned from doing these. I feel that it’s for more of a CYA moment- which anyone who has worked in corporate before should be familiar with. So it’s not something I would recommend. If you have an experienced grader who uses a solid grade rule, it shouldn’t be on your list of to-dos.

Garment testing samples

If you are producing clothing for a large retailer or have specific requirements that need to be met, garments can be sent for lab testing to be analyzed. Testing can encompass a lot of different elements such as shrinkage, durability, seam stability. There’s a lot to unpack here and it merits it’s own blog post. Just know that these samples can be made in substitute colors with a non-fit approved pattern, but must represent qualities that will be present in the final production.

TOP Samples.

TOP stands for top of production. It should literally be just that. TOP’s are garments that are pulled from the beginning of production by your factory and are sent as a reference as to what you will receive in bulk from them. Rarely can anything ever be modified when there is an issue with a TOP sample. It is what it is at that point. TOP’s will become your reference sample that you’ll keep forever as part of your library.

Now, if you are just a small startup and/or producing less than 50 pieces, do not bother your manufacturer to send you a TOP sample. Chances are your bulk production will be finished the day after they ship out a TOP. I don’t want you to be “eyerolled” behind the scenes. The number one sample that you should be requesting from your manufacturer is a pre-production sample.

Buyers reference sample

This sample will be requested after an order has been placed if you are working with a retailer. The fit may not be approved yet, but the actual fabric and trims should be used. This sample can be used in merchandising meetings and the buyer will be referencing this sample as what to expect for bulk production.

Factory reference samples

Used typically in large overseas manufacturing situations, the factory will often make a duplicate of each sample they send to you. It can be a prototype sample, fit samples, and PP samples. The point of these samples are for the factory to have something to reference if any issue arises that they need to investigate further.

What small businesses should focus on

Waste is something to be avoided at all costs. All the samples I have listed potentially leave a huge wasteful footprint. It is my hope that large retailers start to use more 3D technology to realize their ideas before oversampling. 3D is something that you can also use for your brand. Let’s say you aren’t sure if you want a long sleeve or a short sleeve, or maybe want to see different gathering ratios. Don’t waste a sample, make a 3D model.

Once you are ready to develop your product or collection you should be focused on the following:

1st fit sample- this is also your prototype sample, but will be perfectly acceptable for fitting.
2nd fit sample- verify that all changes were made. Ok to be made in substitute fabric
Pre-production sample- This is made by your factory once the pattern has been graded. It is made in actual fabric with bulk trims.

The next time you see your garment after this should be in a box with the rest of the finished production.

Are there more types of samples than these?

Potentially yes, depending on your organization's size. The bigger the brand, the more sample steps along the way. It’s all about what your processes require. But samples are not free, so consider the number of samples as food for thought.

Also, you may find that different people have different names for their samples. For instance, your factory can be calling your pre-production sample, a proto, because it is to them. Whatever you call it just be aware of the different sample stages and how they can help to improve you workflow.