Extending Your Size Range for Plus Sizes
This is a super popular topic and I get lots of questions on how clothing brands can become more size inclusive. But first off, let’s discuss what this means. Extending your size range means being inclusive to larger bodies beyond the small sizes that we have traditionally been taught are “standards". Size inclusivity is probably the most discussed in regards to women’s clothing, but not exclusive to women. I’ve even worked on children’s clothing lines that are taking this into consideration.
It’s important to keep in mind that the information below is based on industry experiences and technical parameters.
I am in no way saying not to do plus sizes. Are we clear on that?
This post is intended for business owners and clothing brands to understand the market and technicalities we face so high quality products can be delivered to this underserved market.
Semantics
I’ve spent most of my career working on “plus sizes” because I’ve worked for mass retailers that recognize the importance of having clothing that fits everyone. When working on sizes that range from 0-30, for example, there are two patterns that we are working from for each style. In a workplace that deals in speed and volume we have conversations in regards to missy or plus. These are our shorthand words that quickly denote a specificity because on the technical level, we need to differentiate. Maybe someday these adjectives will evolve.
I’m seeing a shift in the way that we refer to “plus sizes” as more of an “extended size range”. Your customers are sensitive to how they are defined. He/She/They are just an average person who has a larger body circumference that what you may offer. It’s up to you how you choose to announce your new sizing, but I recommend keeping this in mind.
Should you be doing plus sizes?
This isn’t a question of business sense or doing what is right, but more related to your dedication. You have to be committed to this range and to have a point of view on what it should be. At the minimum you should have a fit model ready to go for this new venture and lots of questions to ask me. You are investing in another set of patterns. It should be reviewed and compared to the original range and addressed with the same amount of attention.
Most of the clientele that I work with to create a second range are awesome designers/business people. They are thoughtful and sensitive to why we need two size ranges for one garment and we work together to build a new product to really get excited about. However, there are times I run across designers who have elements of the following scenario: They want to micro-manage their missy range and fuss over the fit and details. They also want to include “all the plus sizes”, but have no opinion on what it should look like or how it should fit. They may even want to skip the fitting process. It is assumed that I will figure it out for them and deliver a plus sized pattern that they won’t have to do any work on and it checks the box of size inclusivity.
I know most people are more thoughtful than this, but it’s also understandable that within your business you have things that you can’t wait to work on and other projects that linger forever. If extending your size range is something that you would rather “check-out” on, then it may not be the right time for you to address this. If you are going to do it, do it well. If your customer is demanding this range then you better get excited to work on it ASAP. I’m always happy to have a conversation with a designer about how we can make it an exciting project for their brand. It doesn’t have to be a project that just gets checked off your to-do list. It can and should be something you are excited about and fully invested in delivering.
Invest Wisely
Being inclusive is great, but taking it to it’s limits to say you are the most inclusive brand out there may not be the best move for you financially (you are investing in new patterns, new samples, grading, markers, doubling your fabric orders, production costs and marketing, to name a few). I would recommend making sure you know where your gaps in sizing are. Do your research to find out what sizes your customers/potential customers are asking for.
If you have not been catering to this customer then it may take some time for her to find you. You more than likely won’t sell out overnight unless you are a brand with major exposure. Dip your toes in and see where it goes. Look for trends and potential areas for growth and build up to meet your customer needs. You may find, for instance, that you only sell a couple of pieces of your 4X garments, but you produced a hundred. Next season, maybe the 4X orders are reduced until there is more demand, for example.
If you are worried about excluding people, then maybe you produce to order for certain sizes until you are sure that inventory you invest in will sell. This is not just in regards to larger sizes, this applies to small sizes as well.
Sizing is not a Competition
A trend that I am seeing are brands trying to push size inclusivity to the max. Just as the process of creating your extended range will need a new set of patterns, so to will going past a certain extended sizing point because it has distorted too much from grading and a third base pattern needs to be added (for those of you crunching the numbers- your development costs have tripled now).
However, I have a more important concern than costs. These large circumferences enter into a zone where the wearer may require a different approach for functionality or even be considered disabled. Making garments for people with disabilities is awesome (and hint: I wish more people would ask me to work on this category!), but it requires a definite sensitivity to fit requirements that aim for functionality. If you are not educated on what the fit requirements of this range should be, it may not be the best addition to your line. If you feel passionate about this range and can clearly define your fit intent then I’m game.
Grading can only take you so far
Extending your size range could sound as easy as emailing your grader and asking for “X” number of sizes to be added onto a pattern. Technically I could take a pattern and add infinite number of sizes. Will they fit good? No way.
There is no definite answer where the grading should stop, but there are some considerations. Most skirts can just be graded from XS- 4X. If your garment is fitted then you will probably not be able to add on larger than a size XL if your base size is a small. If it is a loose boxy fit then you may be able to add more sizes on. I’m hesitant to say until I see a pattern shape and then sometimes try out the grading. I know what I’m looking for regarding the larger sizes so it it seems to be too crazy I’m going to call it.
What I would like to see more of
We all know that the average female is not a size 4 or 6 so why are we starting here? Schools have invested in dress forms and teaching methods in books are based on this skewed sizing. It’s what we learn from, but it’s far form the average. If brands started from a larger base size- say a 12 or 14 we could do a lot more things with sizing and be inclusive from the get go.
I really enjoy working on extended size ranges. Surprisingly, not a lot of pattern makers have a lot of experience in this category (oh boy have I had my share of weird patterns that I’ve had to fix up!) Assumptions are made incorrectly and too often it’s approached with zero creativity and no eye for proportions. I like putting all the pieces together to help brands build exciting styles for this range. My goal is to make a size 30 look and feel the same as the size 6.
If you need help extending your size range- get in touch!