How Much Does Patternmaking Cost?
Let’s cut to the chase, shall we? How much does it cost to get a pattern made?
You won’t find out unless you contact someone directly about your project because we want to talk to you to find out what you are making, are you serious, and what you need. To get the information you’ll need to get in touch with an actual patternmaker.
But I know how you feel if you are just wanting to test the waters. Maybe you just want to see if hiring a patternmaker could possibly be in your budget. You can’t budget for what you don’t know, right?
The reasoning behind patternmaking prices
If there is any doubt in your mind whether you should be paying the fee that is quoted to you, just remember this- you contacted a professional to perform a task that you cannot either do yourself or do not have the capacity to do because of timing. Would you question the fees of a plumber or electrician if you were unable to do the job yourself? (Don’t worry, I use this same logic on myself all the time as I balk at a price, but then realize I can’t cut down my own 40ft tree. I get ya)
“So, how much?”
I can’t speak for everyone but as I write this in late 2020, hourly pattern work- done by a legitimate professional starts at around $100 (maybe slightly less) per hour up to the $250 an hour range. Oftentimes you will run into minimum time investment of 2 hour or so per project.
Some service providers have been know to charge a flat rate, but I can’t really speak to that. Anyone willing to share can leave a comment below.
How many hours should I expect my project to take?
The initial pattern development usually takes the most time. This involves the patternmaker studying your sketches and supporting materials, asking you questions, and making the first draft.
Below is my very rough estimate for timing, assuming I have been given a detailed spec sheet. Keep in mind that I have been doing patternmaking for nearly 20 years now and work very quickly in a digital capacity.
Basic Tshirt- 1 hour
Pants- 2-3 hours
Dress- 2-4 hours
Fully lined jacket 3-5 hours
Let me set a guidepost for you- if you hire someone to draft a pattern by hand and you get a bill for a t-shirt pattern that took 7 hours, something is wrong.
Revisions
After the initial first pattern, a sample is made and revisions and style changes will need to be made and the same hourly fee applies. This is when things get a little grey because it really depends on the extent of the changes needed. For myself, this takes me usually under 1 hour.
You Get What You Pay for
I’m just going to share and say that I am not a patternmaking "deal” that you’ve scored. I’ve been around the block, seen a lot, and know a lot. What you pay for is my not only me delivering a pattern to you, but my knowledge and industry experience. I know where you need to end up and how to get you there. I’m sure other patternmakers feel the same way.
Hiring a discounted patternmaker
You may find someone that just finished fashion school and is taking on patternmaking projects at a rate much lower than I quoted, but proceed with caution.
Hold on!
If you are such a pattern maker ready to come at me with your wrath, just know this. I was you at one time. I took on projects while I was in college that were really crazy and some that were just too much because I did not truly know what I did not know, nor did I understand my limitations. I didn’t have a good grasp on my pricing, timing and project management skills. Because I was frustrated with where I put myself, I became volatile for serious clients looking to build their brand. It was a lot of pressure.
Client work is a hard gig. I quit it for a long time, preferring to work for manufacturers and retailers, but have only come back to it in the last 5 years or so. It’s still hard work, but I manage it much better now having the experience and confidence in my skills to back me up.
It’s important to give new pattern makers work, and if they fit your budget, then go for it. Just be prepared for some of what I mentioned above and be ready to roll with the punches if mistakes happen. I am who I am because I learned from my mistakes I made along the way and was lucky enough to be supported by people who were focused on resolutions rather than blame.
How to save money on your patternmaking project
If you can do basic drafting to make your own first pattern I encourage this. I work with a handful of clients that like to suss out the design intent and proportions on their own time. They work out what it should look like. From here they pass it to me to resolve any fit issues that they have (because that’s my jam) and do an overall audit to ensure that things are done properly. Not every patternmaker may be willing to take on this type of project, but it never hurts to ask. Sometimes their speciality is drafting a style from scratch. I like to do rebuilds because it’s what I’ve spent the bulk of my career doing with overseas factories who didn’t understand how to fit the American woman’s body.
You can also save money by knowing what you want and the materials you are planning to work with. Lots of changes and re-designs can easily balloon costs.
What to expect for the overall cost
Anyone who thinks they can get by on the cheap, or are borderline not able to pay, probably shouldn’t be looking to produce an apparel item. Patternmaking fees are just one part of the big picture. A single style could represent a potential $5000 development investment. There are a lot of people involved in the making of a single product and time and materials can be costly. Just be aware of what you are jumping into.
I’m always mindful of my clients budgets and am not looking to run the clock on any projects. I’m a small business too, so I get you. I’d hate to take a step forward to grow my business, but feel as though it was too much money for the effort that was put in. Just know that there are skilled people ready and willing to help you.