How to Choose the Right Manufacturer for Your Fashion Line
Choosing a manufacturer for your first official production run is a big deal. You’ve probably started researching online, asking for references and visiting booths at trade shows. Right about now, it feels really overwhelming and you just want to make the right decision for your fashion brand. But where do you start in choosing the right manufacturer?
The honest truth is that every situation will be different and there is no single right answer. Sorry! What you want out of your production will look entirely different from another designer. But don’t worry, I am not going to leave you hanging. Instead, I want to give you some food for thought. There are so many considerations. Let’s talk through what to look for in choosing the right manufacturer, and deciding what is important to you.
Price
It’s super tempting to go with the lowest cost. But you know quality. You know that a t-shirt you can buy at a mass market retailer for $5.00 will either not last, not fit, or the materials and construction are pretty poor quality. On the other hand, it can be hard to justify the cost of a $100 t-shirt that just has a fancy label attached to it. But there has to be a middle ground, right?
You are absolutely not going to get a deal in cost within the US, because workers here are paid a “fair” wage, so if the lowest possible cost is important, then don’t start here. This means you will have to look to overseas manufacturers. But they are cheap for a reason- they may not pay their workers well, they don’t spend any money on safety measures for their employees, they may subcontract the work, the materials they use are poor quality, etc..
Shipping
You could find the best of factories that are doing everything as they should and providing you with an amazing product. However, you still have to consider how your production will be shipped. Air freight alone is expensive and then there are import duties that you have to pay. If you are going the route of working with an overseas manufacturer, make sure you do the due diligence in finding out about shipping and duties. You may find that it is cheaper to use a domestic manufacturer and take a road trip to pick up your garments.
Proximity
I’ve found that second to price, the biggest concerns most designers have is the general proximity to their location. It means a low carbon footprint, supporting local businesses, and the ability to pop in and out of the factory whenever you are needed. If this sounds like what you need, then I’m not going to say no. However, I’ve spent decades communicating with manufacturers only by email, sometimes phone, and rarely meeting a single one in person, so I know remote work can be done.
Now, I have heard that some manufacturers like the designers to be present, but I tend to think the opposite. If you want to do an initial visit, that could be ok. However, when you visit a factory you are essentially getting in the way and disrupting workflows. There is also a matter of confidentiality. There is a fine line between knowing what the factory is capable of and knowing who they work for and exactly what the product they are making is. Would you be ok with someone coming in and observing your production, taking photos, or asking questions about your suppliers? Probably not.
I encourage you to expand your search. You could potentially find the right production partner on the other side of the country and you know if you need to reach them, you can speak to someone on the phone in your language. If you need to visit, a domestic airline ticket will probably still be cheaper than your freight and import duties if you went overseas.
MOQ’s & Lead times
You could find the best factory that makes amazing garments for high end designers, at your price point, and shipping is doable. However, if their MOQ (minimum order quantity) is 1000 pieces and you only want 300- stop! Do not pass go. A few extra garments is one thing, but a significant amount like this can severely erode your bottom line.
The goal with fashion is not to be left with inventory. Inventory means you have to pay for storage and it means that your swimsuits that didn’t sell have to wait another year before you can try to sell them again and hope that the customer is still excited about the style. When you are first starting out, it’s better to sell out and create a waitlist instead of banking on the possibility of sales.
Another consideration is lead times. If a factory cannot fit your production run in until 3 months later than you want, then it is probably not a good fit. Be sure to ask what their lead times look like once fit is approved and all materials are on site.
Type of products
Not all factories make the same clothing. You may find small manufacturers that will take on whatever work they can find and give it a go, but that rarely lasts. More often you will find that factories have specializations for the products that they make.
Factories have specializations because of the machines that they have invested in and the type of work their employees do. For instance, a factory that makes suits may have special machines that make welt pockets and keyhole buttonholes. But they probably would not have a flatlock machine which is needed if you are making leggings.
Be sure to search for factories by the type of garment you want to make. Include in your search phrases- example: jeans manufacturer, t-shirt manufacturer, ladies blouse manufacturer, etc…
Quality
Quality is in the eye of the beholder. You know what level of quality you are looking for and it can be a search to find the right manufacturer that can achieve what going for. If you are working at a budget factory, chances are they probably won’t be too concerned about meeting the required specs. They don’t have the people, time and knowledge to sort through and ensure consistency. They care about getting your product in and out as quickly as possible.
Sometimes large factories just cannot dedicate enough effort to quality control. They let the sewers do just enough to complete a job, but do not ask them to improve.
Before you start production with any factory, it is essential to get a sample made to review the level of quality that they will provide. Now, just be aware, if you are doing small quantities, it is completely understandable that a factory may not take the time to measure garments and check that all is meeting the required specs. You still have to give a factory a reasonable amount of tolerance for mistakes and errors because human hands are involved and are not without fault.
Ethical standards
As I mentioned earlier, the cheapest factories may not have enough care for human rights, child labor, and workplace safety violations. They can be focused on completing the process as quickly as possible. This is a risk with overseas production because you aren’t there to verify and and anyone can guarantee anything over email.
However, there are overseas factories that specifically advertise their services based on their commitment to their workers, so definitely do not take my statements above as blanket advice. There are amazing people doing amazing things. Add to your search terms: Fair trade garment factories, fair labor standards garment factories, etc.
Relationships
Do not underestimate the power of relationships in the fashion industry. It’s all about who you know and who they know. This applies to anything you want to do. But most importantly, it’s knowing who you trust, who has your back, and who has your mutual interests in mind.
A good factory can be your best ally in times of business trouble and new connections can emerge. Or you can help out your factory when they need it most by shifting production so they can keep workers busy, as an example.
It is essential that you treat your factory as a partner, not as someone who you work with for this one production, but you’ll see for next time. Factories want stability and they are more likely to work with good repeat customers on price, quality and timing. The garment industry truly is an ecosystem where everyone relies on each other, so it’s worth it to plan for a long term relationship.
Final Thoughts: Breakups and Diversification
It can take time to find the right manufacturer. Relationships do not happen overnight. It’s best to give your factory the benefit of the doubt for any grievances that you may have with your first production (unless it’s totally egregious). Be sure to communicate how you would like things improved and discuss with them what can be done. If it still does not get better, it may be time to start looking for other manufacturers. It’s always about improving, so if a factory is not interested in improving or doesn’t seem to value your business, it can be time to move on.
Even if things are totally peachy with you and your factory, it’s fine to look around. The garment industry is pretty volatile, your factory could have to close, or they can’t take on your production anymore, they have to pivot business, etc.. You need to be prepared and to always be open to opportunities in case of quick pivots.