Where to Start When Hiring a Patternmaker

I previously discussed what a pattern maker does, breaking it down to the nuts and bolts of responsibilities to make sure are all on the same page. But now I want to get into the expectations. If you have no idea where to begin when hiring a pattern maker, or if you are looking to pass off some of your workload but are not quite sure how, you should definitely start here. This post is dedicated to where your thought process needs to be and to help put you in the right frame of mind to set up a fruitful relationship that will hopefully last many collections.

Don’t Expect to Check Out

Hiring a pattern maker does not mean the job is completely out of your hands. There are always questions that arise. It is your responsibility to help guide the pattern maker to ensure you receive the product you envision. Working with a pattern maker is a collaborative process. You must come prepared.

In the beginning, there will be many detailed emails going back and forth that require attention. My clients pay for professional expertise. I will let you know if anything is missing or if more information is needed. Easy pass off of work only comes with time, once everyone knows what the expectations are. I can tell you from experience; everyone has their own workflow that has to be adapted to. Whatever you think is “standard” is really not.

Be Prepared

Please, do not send over a couple of scribbles on paper and expect magic from me. Have all of your supporting information ready, including spec sheets, tech sketches, and fabrics. (Don’t worry, I go into more details of what this entails in a later post.

I love to hear that you are sourcing fabrics, manufacturers, and suppliers before we start and have a marketing plan in the works. This shows that you are serious. Remember, just because you are missing the sample component doesn’t mean that all else is on hold until the pattern is complete. Serious designers understand that the whole process is in constant flux.

Know How to Verbalize Your Intentions

Feel confident with your point of view and be able to explain what you do and do not like. When revisions are needed, organize your thoughts and clearly convey the information pertinent for me to complete your project. While a pattern maker is technical, that does not give me key insight into how much to shorten a skirt when you say it’s “too long”. Be specific: “reduce length 2”. Saying that it’s “not what you were thinking” gives me no insight into how to improve the pattern.

Be Transparent on Your Process and Needs

Everyone has different work processes and your pattern maker needs to know all about yours. Do you sew the samples or does someone else? Are you going to do the basic shell of a jacket first and once styling is right I will send the complete jacket with lining? This makes a big difference in cost. What is your fit model like? Are you going to need to make different size photo samples before the fit is approved? If I have an idea of your process I will try to find the most cost efficient and time-saving methods for you.

Know the Roles

It’s not one-stop shopping. A pattern maker is a garment engineer. I can take your idea and make it into a template that you can mass produce from. A frequent misconception is that a pattern maker can refer you to sample makers, fabric resources and manufacturers. While in some cases this may be possible, it is not my job nor am I interested in playing matchmaker. I do not advise on fabrics or what to purchase. If something is not compatible I will tell you, but I can’t tell you specifically what to buy as I am not a textile expert.

Though I have knowledge of many manufacturers I am in no way obligated to give you their information. Referrals come with time. If you are a good client and serious about your work I could make a recommendation if I feel it’s appropriate. Please understand, these references are my colleagues and friends. I do not want to refer someone I cannot vouch for or who could be problematic which would reflect badly on me. We are all professionals and busy with our work, leaving little time to stop and teach along the way.

Understand How the Turnaround Timing Works

If you are enlisting the service of a pattern maker, this means that he/she is a service provider who takes on many clients to be able to pay the bills. Your project is just one of many, so it’s not reasonable to expect an instantaneous turnaround. Ask what the timing looks like and build a few weeks turnaround for each fit revision into your time frame. If the timing is less than that, then it’s a win-win. However, from my experience, most service providers will quote you what you want to hear just to get the job and it will often take longer. I pad my timing quotations and if I’m running behind I’ll give a heads up in advance.

Also, don’t make up false information to try to rush the job. Statements such as, “The factory is going to be cutting tomorrow!," are nonsense because the factory will usually not schedule production until every component is in their hands…and the pattern is a key element in their ability to do so. This is just one of many excuses I’ve heard. Save these dramatic statements for when you sincerely need to rush a project and I’ll always try to do my best. Repeat offenders tend to get pushed to the back of the workload pile and then no one believes them when it’s really important. It’s your job to be a good client, and give us time to complete quality work. If it’s getting a little late it’s alright to check in, just not every hour/day.

Your Pattern Maker will be One of Your Closest Allies

I like to remind my clients that if they are not successful then I will not be successful. It’s the circle of life and a repeat customer is the best kind. Honestly, I’m just as emotionally invested as you are. Your project also becomes my baby as we build it together and figure out how to make it real.

If my established clients are having trouble along the way I am one of the first stops for questions, whatever they may be. Perhaps they need my opinion, construction advice, or need a referral. I know what suggestions to offer and have an idea of what the designer is going for. If something can save cost along the way then I’ll mention it. However, this comes with time and familiarity. I’ve had clients that I’ve worked with for many years that I automatically know what they are looking to achieve so their projects are a breeze for all of us.

You Have Got to be 100% Invested

One thing you need to understand about being a fashion designer is that design is, maybe, 10% of the process, if that. The rest of the time you will be coordinating product development through its different production phases and making key decisions along the way on a daily basis. It’s not a glamorous life and it’s not for everyone, but this is the life of a designer/business owner.

If you are a complete beginner with no interest in this, or what happens during the production process in general, I’m probably going to pass on your project. Your product's success depends on your full investment. No one will care as much as you do. It’s imperative to be proactive and involved in all production stages.

As a starting point, I like to refer designers to the book 'Entrepreneurs' Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing.' This is an awesome resource as an introduction into the garment industry. The book gives a basic understanding of what it takes to get started and you can become familiar with terms and concepts that are regularly used.

Clothing design is a process that involves building a working relationship with a pattern maker who understands your style and intention. Bringing your designs to life requires detailed technical specifications, responsiveness to inquiries, and total commitment from both the designer and pattern maker. I ask that you come prepared with the same attitude.

If you missed the previous post, or are unsure of what a pattern maker does- read this!