Why You Need a Size Chart & Where to Start

If you are producing clothing or sewing patterns you absolutely need a size chart. You cannot even convince me otherwise. If you have been operating your business without a size chart then you are putting yourself at risk and setting up the potential for a lot of returns. 

Size charts can feel official and overwhelming. But really they are not that hard to pull together and this will set the tone for the fit of your brand. Let’s start out by talking about WHY you need a size chart

A size chart helps customers select their size

It will happen- someone will get in touch not knowing what size to choose because they don’t fit into any category perfectly. You will need to feel comfortable referring to your sizing chart to give them guidance. For those panicked that this is beyond their knowledge base, here’s the easy answer: As a guideline I would recommend choosing a size based on the most fitted area of the garment. For a top or dress, this would be the chest circumference. For a pant or skirt this would be the hips. 

A size chart creates customer confidence

Having a sizing chart allows the customer to select their appropriate size based on their body measurements in relation to your sizing standard. If they are new to your brand, this is the best way for them to select the right size. As well all know, fit varies from brand to brand. It’s just a fact of garment industry life. Having a guideline in place instills confidence that the product they are spending a lot of money on will fit their body. 

A size chart can cut down on returns

A major concern for e-commerce is reducing the amount of returns. If you are creating garments to order a return can be disastrous. If you are shipping from your inventory, it’s still going to cost you a shipment and then what do you do with the returns? 

It all depends on how strict you want to be, but if you have a size chart in place that the customer can choose their size from, they can’t really say it doesn’t fit and blame you if they are a medium in your brand but think that they are small. Most brands will allow returns for something that doesn’t fit right, so don’t start thinking that I’m proposing that no returns are allowed. Instead, encourage customers to get in contact with you to help select their size so everyone is on the same page. 

A size chart should not confuse a customer

Please don’t try to reinvent sizing by calling it size 1, 2, 3 etc. Or even having it as size A,B,C etc. (I am ok with this for home sewing patterns though because customers will be reviewing the measurements carefully to select the right size and are familiar with the practice). Yeah, maybe this takes the stigma away from a number or a letter to represent a body and I get that and I think comes from a good place. But when we are shopping on our phones late at night and we click your instagram ad because something looked cute, we just want to buy it asap. Most of us don’t want to do a live chat to ask what size B relates to or to go dig out a tape measure to check body measurements. If this type of sizing is something you really believe in, then by all means proceed as you see fit. My point is, make sure you are thinking about ease of use. 

You can also avoid confusion by not giving any more information then is absolutely necessary. Chest, waist, and hip circumference are the bare minimums and I think that’s all the info that should be available. The average person does not know what the other measurements mean, how to measure them, or what they relate to.

To start on your sizing, get very clear on your standard/sample size

You have your fit sample size, right? At this point you should have a good idea if it is a small, medium or a specific numeric size. The model that tries on your clothes has their body measurements for the chest, waist and hip circumferences. You are using this body to establish how a garment fits. Therefore these are your standard size numbers for your samples. We live and die by them from now on. These do not change. For example- your medium is now officially a 36” chest, 29” waist, 40” hip. Your fit model is responsible for maintaining these numbers. These numbers will be the starting point for your size chart. We build up or down based on them.

The basics of building a size chart

If you are operating without a size chart then you will need one fast. If you don’t feel confident building one out then please get in touch with me. You will need to provide the following information: 

  1. What is your fit sample size body measurements (chest, waist, hip circumference)

  2. What is the biggest size you would like to offer

  3. What is the smallest size you would like to offer

  4. What size do you associate your fit sample size with (example: a size 8 or a size large. Even if you want to do a unique sizing name, I still like this information so I have a starting point).

A few semi-sizing related headaches to avoid

You wouldn’t/shouldn’t fit a garment to your model and after it’s all done, say, “I know we said she’s a size small, but I think the fit is more of a medium.” If you are not a sizing expert or a pattern grader this probably isn’t the best move to make. If you find yourself in this scenario, tell your pattern maker how you feel instead of changing the labeled size. Some things need to stay the same but we can reduce or increase the equivalent of a size. It’s a delicate balance. 

Or, if you are creating your pattern and are just itching to have it launched into the world yesterday, don’t skip the sizing question. If you proceed as is and send your pattern for grading the grader will ask you what size the pattern is. I’ll give you a clue as to what the wrong answer is: “Umm, I’m not sure yet. Just grade it up 2” and down 2” and we will figure the rest out on our side.” This not only establishes chaos for your fit standard, but it shows you really don’t know what you are doing and doesn’t endear you to professionals that you need to work with. 

Conclusion

I get it. Sizing doesn’t feel fun or glamorous. But it does set your standard, the tone for the fit, who your brand includes, or excludes, and offers you a level of insurance when customers blame you for fit problems. The good news is that once you do it, that should be it. However, as your business grows it can be tweaked slightly but shouldn’t go for a full overhaul at the risk of confusing loyal established customers.

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Preparing Your Patterns for Grading

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Should You be Using Grading to Create Plus Sizes?