All About Samplemaking

Samplemaking is a critical part of the process. As we discussed in the previous post, it’s an essential step in the process and an investment. Teaming up with the right team or individuals will help you out in the long run.

In the many years I’ve worked in the industry, on thing rings true: every brand does it differently. Some prefer to outsource patterns and make the samples in house. Some have the pattern makers do the sampling, or to have their factories make the samples. Some designers even prefer to do it themselves. You need to do what you feel is right for your budget and scenario. 

I am very choosy who we do sampling for at Garmenta Apparel. It’s a huge undertaking, not especially profitable, and a ton of moving parts. If you come with your own sampling resources you are golden in my book. But I do recognize that there are those that need help getting started so I’ll go into more detail a little later in the post about how I approach sampling. 

Finding an independent sample maker 

Whether you find a sample room that specializes in this service or hire a retired lady off of Craigslist, the important thing is to not start off with the most complex out of all your pieces just because you don’t want to sew it yourself. Starting to work with a sample maker is like going on a first date. You kinda test the waters with ONE simple style. Don’t drop your whole line on their lap. This is the epitome of putting all your eggs in one basket.  Everyone should be on their most professional behavior at this point. You are asking them questions and judging their answers and then looking to see the follow through from what was promised. If everything turns out ok then go for that second sample! 

Should you be sewing your own samples?

If it’s the beginning stages of a new project, I say go for it! I understand that you may want to play around with the shapes, drapes and finishes- this is all part of the creative process. However, as the style is finalized, unless you are a professional sewer, I would recommend passing off to be professionally sampled, or at least tested by whoever is going to produce it. This is critical because any last minute kinks in the pattern are worked out and it is important to have an accurate sample that the factory can reference for how the finished garment should look. It’s not fair to pass a garment to a factory as a sew-by sample that has a long sleeve, but should be short sleeve with a cuff with maybe a different zipper application, for example. The factory has a lot on their plate. They must have clear information to work from. 

Sample Quality

The first sample will look like a sample. It will not be perfect because more than likely seams were ripped along the way and parts refashioned to build a better garment because this is the trial and error phase. Sometimes during the process we realize that something isn’t going to work so we find a way to make it work without having to recut and resew a brand new sample. Obviously everyone would like a beautiful looking garment at this stage, but honestly after the style is fit approved this garment is destined for the trash so don’t get too attached. Consider it a rough first draft.

As your project progresses samples should look nicer each time. The only nearly perfect sample should be the pre-production sample from your factory.

It is very important to be mindful about how a garment is sampled. All sewing techniques applied should be based on what would be optimal for mass production. It would not be fair to make a beautiful garment that has couture finishes if the factory does not have the capabilities to do any handwork. Every aspect of constructing a garment has to factor in how each step will be done for bulk. Efficiency is the key.

What a sample is made from?

I mentioned in a previous post that it’s best to sample in the actual fabric you are looking to produce in. Yes, this is probably going to increase your sample cost, but everyone will know the characteristics of the fabric by the endpoint.

But it is very understandable that you may not have everything you need on hand. Work to coordinate with your sampling team about materials that you may want to use for substitutions. Don’t just assume that whatever you give them will work. You really need to consider how you want the end result built and what you can do to mimic that in substituted materials.

Muslin is traditionally thought of as what designers use to build from. Yes and no. I’ll use it sometimes if the weight is similar to what the end product will be, but if I’m making a thick cashmere jacket and I only have lightweight muslin on hand, I probably will switch over to something like cheap crafting felt for draping purposes which would give a closer look. The same is true for making “muslins” of knit garments. You cannot use cotton muslin to make a stretchy garment. We need a comparable substitute.

What you need to provide for sampling

I may be more hardcore than some out there, but I’ve lived and learned. When I agree to sampling, basically the only thing I will provide is thread. Each component affects the way the garment will fit and drape. I don’t want to be held responsible if something I choose is not quite up to the standards that you may envision for your sample.

You must supply the fabric. Even if it will be substituted muslin, it’s up to you because this affects the drape. Additionally, don’t ask to have me pick up something for you to use or use something that we have on hand. We are not a sourcing service, nor a personal shopper. There are more important things that we can be doing instead of out shopping for something to make your sample in.

Colors do not matter. If it is a sample, you can be using the ugliest color combination out there for a first fit just to get an idea of the proportions, and style. If you can only find a neon orange zipper than that’s fine. It’s useable.

Sample Timing

Oof, everyone has a heavy workload and sewing samples takes time. Timelines can vary, but I suggest to plan very far ahead to accommodate any backups and factor in the time it takes you to gather all materials.