When Do You Need Markers?
If you are new to production ready garment markers and want to find out more about what the heck I am talking about , check out this blog post.
For the rest of you, here we go!
Markers are all about optimization and are unique to each production run. Creating an apparel cutting marker is not as generic as grading a pattern. Once the pattern is graded you have the flexibility to do whatever you want with the file and then it exists forever your library. However, when you have a marker made, more than likely, you will only be able to use that file once because quantities could vary each time you would need to cut.
Who Needs Markers?
If you are doing mass production then absolutely you will need them. The whole point of a marker is to optimize fabric consumption so there is very little waste. The more volume you are doing the harder the marker is crunched to save on fabric. For instance, if you are wasting 1 yard of fabric for each ply of fabric cut, this may seem small for someone doing only one or 2 plys, but if you are doing 100, that’s 100 yards of wasted fabric that goes in the trash. Not a good investment.
But you don’t need to be a big brand dealing in major volume either. I have clients that make pre-production samples in each size to confirm the fit and ensure the factory is making the garment as intended. If you are making many garments, even only 5, for instance, it's a lot of work. For the factory to cut each size, every single piece that makes up the garment needs to be laid out on the fabric for cutting. It's a lot of arranging and then re-arranging to make it work.
Maybe some of you have followed home sewing patterns cutting guides in the past. These layouts give you an idea of how to place the pattern pieces, but oftentimes you may be able to come up with a better solution by yourself. Dealing in only one size is managable, but for many sizes, it's a lot of work.
Even if you do made to order, you could find yourself tallying up your orders for the week and then having what has been ordered made into a marker to save as much fabric as possible and make the process more efficient for the factory.
When to Request a Marker to be Made
Markers are a bit more unique and should not be requested just because the project is complete. Markers should be on hold until your fabric is finalized and you know exactly how many garments need to be made.
Additionally, I like to say that it’s best to have the fabric finalized, garment count solid, *and* be ready to go with a factory. When I make markers I like to partner with the factory to ensure the cutting layout works for them and I can work within their parameters. Sometimes they can come back and say that they may prefer it one way or another. It's totally fine and expected.
Check with your factory as well. Sometimes they would prefer to make their own markers because they know exactly how the cutter likes to work.