Digital Files that Your Patternmaker will Provide
Apparel drafting software basically is a language in itself. For professionals that use special software to draft patterns it’s pretty standard. But for anyone else, we may as well be speaking in tongues and you feel helpless as you don’t understand why a file won’t open for someone. Frustration levels are set to maximum. Remain calm, let’s sort this out!
Just a heads up: stick a pin in this post. You may not need it right now, but if you are working with a patternmaker in the future, there will be questions. You may run into some bumps or need a digital file moved from one provider to the next. It’s best to be informed beforehand so you don’t blame your patternmaker for giving you a “junk file” and then look like a fool when she resolves the issue for you (yes, true story!)
Most common Apparel Software systems
Anyone working digitally to create patterns, do markers, grade patterns or cut production will more than likely be using one of the following software platforms:
There are other systems out there, but these are the top players and the most common to be found in a production capacity. Also, I am referencing these as they have full product development flow to include all the functionality listed above. Some systems may just draft a pattern, or produce a 3D rendering.
I work in Optitex, so my files will end with the extension as .PDS. This file cannot be opened directly by someone who uses Gerber. Gerber has its own language. To put it simply, I’m speaking my own language with Optitex and a Gerber user is speaking their language. To talk to each other we need a common file format.
The Most Common File format
A .DXF file can be moved from software system to software system. However, if your pattern has been graded it must come with a .RUL file which contains the information on the sizing. Without both components it will not work.
Adobe Illustrator can open some .DXF files, but it does not contain the functionality of the sizes. Everything is a flat layer. If you need Adobe Illustrator functionality, be sure to tell your service provider as they should be able to send you an Illustrator file as an output option. I am not 100% sure how this works for Gerber and Lectra, but with Optitex I have a direct export option to Adobe Ilustrator in a way that preserves each graded size as it’s own layer.
How difficulties arise
When we import or export files, there are different ways of doing so. For instance, I have 5 different export options to choose from: CADL, AI, DXF, ASTM, AAMA. Initially I thought DXF would suffice, but discovered that ASTM was the best way to get the files to work for everyone.
Conversely, on the importing side, each system has their own procedures. Sometimes my export language may not be registering with someone else’s import. In this case we need to coordinate efforts.
What to do if your service provider cannot open your digital file
First of all, don’t panic and assume someone is trying to screw you over (back to that true story!). Honestly sometimes when I send files to a new manufacturer, we bump around a little to get the right communication set up. We have limited options, so the solution is usually easy once we get the right combinations. When this happens and you are in the middle, find out from your manufacturer what system they are using and let your patternmaker/grader know. Or vice versa. If something is just not clicking we can contact our respective tech supports to advise or verify.
Also, I am happy to be put in direct contact with the person who cannot open the file. I’m sure others feel the same way. We want to make it work and sometimes can do so quicker without making you the messenger.
Files that won’t convert or are are not correct
I’ve seen this most frequently with overseas factories. There are different apparel softwares available to them then what is available in the US market. These don’t necessarily have the same coding information to make the transition smooth. Usually a straight .DXF file can still be read but grading doesn’t always come through.
What can be done to make the file transfer smooth
I like to include a scale box. It’s just a square and can be something standard like 2” x 2” so the other side can easily check to see that the import worked.
When a file is imported the shapes are not changed. The fit of your pattern will not change. Some information like internal lines and drill marks may go missing. A screenshot of the original pattern can also be useful for the receiver to verify that all is present.
Troubleshooting
There are common sense ways of dealing with import/export issues, but surprisingly, people don’t want consider something beyond a direct line. If there are difficulties there is no use in putzing around with one option one day, another option the following day, etc. Nope. I’m going to give you a whole bunch of options to pass on because I have to get back to work.
Here’s a scenario that I ran into. Don’t let your patternmaker or grader be this person: I was having trouble importing a PAD file for grading. I successfully imported another users PAD file only a few days before without issue, so I know it’s not my problem. This file would not contain the dart legs for whatever reason. I asked the client to get back to their patternmaker about this. A few days passed (unacceptable in this type of situation) and instead of a new file to try I get a request to for a screenshot of my settings, because they were keen on blaming me for the trouble. I sent the screenshot but suggested that they send me a file with a cut out dart so I can just add it back manually on my end- problem solved! (sometimes we have to be creative). Nope, instead because I just sent a screenshot of just the options for import exports I didn’t realize that my last used settings were not in alignment with what they were expecting. Well! Clearly this is the problem. Ugh. Nope. A few more days pass and I get a request to set up a Zoom meeting so the patternmaker and their technical support team can watch me import the file to ensure I am doing it correct. F- that! I have work to do and no one is paying me for this. The poor client was stuck in the middle. I never got another file to try. Everyone was so focused on the direct import instead of thinking of workarounds to keep the work going.
How Long Should Troubleshooting go on for?
So the story above is a good example of how it should not take. We can easily import/export a file in under a minute. Maybe 5 if we are trying out different options. Either way it’s a super quick project. It should not take days or weeks for someone to send a new file to try.
Yes, as service providers we are all busy and out inboxes are always filling up. However, I would say to check in if it has been 24 hours and no new files have been exchanged.