What Grading Up to Plus Sizes Looks Like
I’d like to say there are no rules, but then there are some things that just always seem to prove true (but with their own exceptions of course). In best practice you can’t just take a size small pattern and grade it into a plus size. It seems like it should though, right?
Grading is formulaic and the body gets bigger in a predicable way when these formulas are applied. However, human bodies are unique. Pattern grading works to create an average fit. It’s not making promises that your size will fit you perfectly because that’s just not how it works. But we do realize that at a certain point in the pattern grading, the formula veers off from what happens to the human body when numeric sizes are increased.
The situation probably sounds complex, so let me walk you through it.
Oh, and I hope you’ll forgive the semantics in advance. The goal of the post is to help expand sizing and many people still think of larger sizes as “plus sizes”. So my only agenda is to help search results that point here for some clarity on sizing.
Below I have two patterns. Pattern A is a size small graded up to a size 1X. Pattern B is a 1X that I have drafted specifically for plus sizes.
You probably already see some differences. Let’s go over the major points (detailed in below image).
1) The body length is longer for the plus size. This is because a plus size chest is bigger, so you need more length in the pattern to help for additional coverage over the bust.
2) The dart is different. Not only is it deeper, but it is longer. The deeper the dart, the more shaping is provided for larger cup sizes.
3) The shoulder is narrower for the plus size. Just because bodies are wider, does not mean the shoulders need get so much bigger. This is one of the biggest complaints with plus sizes.
4) The armhole curves are different. The graded 1X is more scooped out whereas the drafted 1X allows for more coverage at the armhole. This is particularly important for sleeveless blouses.
5) A subtle difference is the hips. The drafted 1X hip is bigger. The plus size customer has different curves to take into consideration and quite frequently have larger hips so I factor this in.
Here is what the two different methods look once they are stacked on top of each other.
For a relatively simple style, like the one I used to demonstrate I could potentially create a specific grade rule for making the size small grade up to a 1X successfully. The thing is, it would take quite a bit of engineering on my part and would take some trials to figure out if this is an accurate representation of your plus sizes. When the work is billed hourly, this could add up.
Oftentimes when I am asked to make a plus size based on a misses style I will grade up to the body widths I need. However, then I go back in and modify the shapes and measurements to work for the desired plus size customer. Trust me, this is not a time saver. It’s almost like starting from scratch sometimes, but it gives me an idea of the proportions.
Additionally, many brands create two separate patterns for misses and plus sizes because they will not treat the styling exactly the same for each which is determined by feedback from their target customers. For instance, a size small has a small cap sleeve that ends at the widest part of the bicep. This may not be considered flattering for a plus size that has a wider biceps and this type of sleeve can end at a point in the arm where it’s not comfortable so they may opt to make it an elbow sleeve or just a touch longer. It’s still considered the same style, made with the same fabric, but different considerations for different sizes.
So yeah, overall you should be creating a different pattern past a certain size point. However, there is still a lot of personalization to apply for each brand, such as the styling you want for your customer.
Viewpoints differ considerably. For instance, I horrified one designer by suggesting that a paper bag waist pant with a giant ruffle that goes around the waist, may need to be toned down for the larger sizes (heck, even for the size 2 it looked comical). It was decidedly un-PC of me to suggest a difference. I’m totally on board with body acceptance- I just don’t think anyone wants to look like they are 4 sizes bigger in the midsection.
My point is this- The goal is not to dumb it down or try to fit everything into a formulaic box. It’s up to you as a designer to recognize your customers needs and how they want to feel. To do so starts with seeing and listening to your larger size customers as well.