How To Hire a Fit Model
The samples are ready! Now it’s time to see how they look. But who do you put them on and how do you hire the right model?
Hiring a Professional Fit Model
Professional Fit Models are the best bet. But don’t think for a minute that hiring anyone with the title of “model” will get you what you need. Generally, the word model is associated with publicity purposes. Model gals have the pretty faces and everything looks amazing on them and they lead fabulous jet setting lives (or at least that’s what I picture). But Fit Models are a different type and are what you need to ensure fit consistency. Some may have done publicity but they are not selected because of their beauty, but rather their body (don’t get me wrong, there are many beautiful Fit Models, but this is just a bonus). Fit Models make a living maintaining body measurements and proportions. It’s serious business for them because they make around $250 per hour (in the NYC area at least) and have multiple clients that depend on their fixed measurement figure. The most glamorous work trips these models take are to overseas factories for major fittings.
What makes their bodies different from the average Jane is they are well proportioned: shoulders are straight and not too wide, front to back balance measurements good (aka: evenly distributed in girth- chest is not too big in the front and hips are not too big in the back), posture is straight without distortions, etc. it’s hard to tell these points by just looking at first glance. An understanding of a Fit Models body comes through working with her and trying on garments that you already know fit well.
Each model has her own body quirks so it’s always a trade off as to your needs.
How to Interview a Fit Model:
You will always need to perform what is called a go-see. This is where the model comes in and you measure her and try garments on that have been previous successes for you to see how she relates to your core standard. (This is usually free, but it’s a safer bet to ask the agency what the go-see rate is). It’s only a meet and greet with a try on so keep it professional and don’t ask for any “favors”. It’s a good idea to bring garments that are fit specific- fitted to the body, waist seams to see where they fall into relation, pants are always a good go-to. I always like to ask what other clients she works with to get a sense of her target customer base and how it compares to the brand.
Do not take a models word on her measurements. These change and sometimes they can be rounded up or down to make her more appealing to a potential client. Yes, it is an extra step to do a go see, but a Fit Model is an investment and should be interviewed with the intention of working with her for many years to keep your fit consistent. Don’t randomly switch models each season because of scheduling conflicts. Try to make it work.
TIP: Take full body photos of the model in the garments. Print out to review afterwards. Sometimes it’s hard to judge on the spot so I like to take this time to analyze and think over, weighing the pros and cons of her shape.
Using Your Friends or Private Individuals for Fit Models
Hiring a Fit Model can be expensive, so that route is not always an option due to finances or location. In this case you will have to start the search for an individual. The # 1 thing to keep in mind: Just because her measurements fit the parameters does not mean she’s a good fit. For instance, maybe her butt is flat or she has a hunch at her back shoulders. There are different postural distortions that average people have and tend not to try and correct.
Using Yourself as a Fit model
I know a lot of people like to use themselves. I totally get it. I’m not going to lecture you why you shouldn’t do this, because, heck, I do this myself. But the thing is, I take my measurements regularly and I am aware of how I deviate from a sizing standard and factor that into my revisions. I know my waist is 1” over so I should fit it tighter in that area. My shoulders are broad and straight so I’m not doing to make the shoulders fit me perfectly because there are plenty of customers with narrow and sloped shoulders. They key is to go in between.
Just because it’s your design does not mean it should fit you like a glove. Yes, that’s the ideal, but you have to factor in a lot of body types until you can narrow down who your target customer is. The goal is not to fit a singular person, but a whole range.
What I love about using yourself as a model: You can only learn so much from a quick try on. Sometimes a style needs to be lived in. I always encourage my clients to wear their samples and live in them for a bit to see how the garment functions. What bothers you? What looks odd? Sometimes you need a bit of time for this.
What to do if you don’t have garments to fit yet
Don’t wait until you have samples ready. A good model can be hard to find so start thinking about this early to make sure she is ready when you are.
If you are making your own patterns and are just starting out then maybe you don’t have much to try on for a go-see. Samples could still be in process or maybe you are not so confident in your drafting. If you put an ill-fitting garment on her then it’s going to be hard to judge her body.
My recommendation is… brace yourself for this…go to your local Walmart and pick up a few pieces. Make sure these sizes align with your range and are perhaps similar shape/fit that you are going for to get a sense of body widths. Try these on her and see how they hang. Yes, it’s about your clothes. However, if your fit has not been standardized yet, the bigger the label the more diligence is done to achieve what I like to call an everybody fit. I suggest Walmart because their standards are one of the toughest in the industry. They bet on big quantities ($$$) selling. A poor fit is going to be bad news for them so they will make sure it’s a good everyone fit. When looking at these garments on the model, take note of seeing the same fit issue or weirdness that happens in the clothes. You will start to get a sense of her body and can make the determination if this is acceptable or your will have to interview another model.
If you are just starting out or taking the big step of hiring a model, you need to be flexible and open minded. No one is ever going to be perfect, but eventually you will find the Fit Model that’s “just right”.