How to Work With a Fit Model

The last post was all about finding the right model, now it’s time to discuss what happens at a fitting and the proper etiquette. Let’s get one thing straight off the bat, fit models are not oracles of style. They don’t put on the garment and fit it for you, and tell you what changes you should make. You have to discern the proper route. Just because you hire a model does not she’s going to tell you what needs to be done. This is your design and your fit intent.

What Fit Models are responsible for:
Fit models are responsible for commenting on how they physically feel in the garment:
Example:
-“the bicep is snug”
-“the sides pull up when I raise my arms”
-“the skirt opening isn’t quite big enough to allow for a long stride”

You are in charge of the fitting and the direction you are going. Sometimes a new model will try to talk too much and impress you with what she knows and thinks. I get it, but don’t get wrapped up in too much discussion. You know what it should be.

It’s not to say that fit models don’t have a good sense of styling. Quite the contrary. If I work with a model for a long time we both know what to expect. I know how something should hang on her properly and she knows the styling I’m going for. If I’m on the fence, I’ll ask her what she thinks because I’m looking for an opinion. A good fit model will ask you about the styling so she understands your intention, she won’t tell you what it should be.

Respect her space
Please don’t manhandle the model. I shouldn’t have to say this but I’ve worked with too many people who thought the model was not a person and tugged at her arms, poked her with scissors and probably would have been considered a sexual predator outside the fit room. Please be kind and courteous!

-Don’t use permanent markers that can bleed through the fabric to her skin.
-For the love of everything holy do not use straight pins. Safety pins only!
-If you need her to move a certain way ask her. Don’t position her as you imagine.
-Don’t touch her unless you have to. Yes, you will be fussing with a garment, but I’ve seen too many designers fawn over their creation, making the final grand gesture a caress of the fit models arms or working close and touching a cheek (yes these all are weird and they do happen).
-Warn her when you are going to cut the fabric.
-Sensitive areas: anything around the crotch area or nipple area is off limits. Ask her to mark or cut in these areas if necessary. Also use good manners. Warn her if you need to work close to these areas. I usually say it in a apologizing way and she will say it is ok then so she knows I’m not a creeper.

Be Prepared
-Have lots of safety pins
-Wax chalk in light and dark colors
-Tape measure
-Camera
-Proper space and light
-Set up a time block. Personally, I think 15 min per garment is sufficient in average.

Coordinate what the model is bringing
Let the model know what you are fitting and discuss what she should bring. She should supply her own of the following:
-pants or jeans if she’s fitting tops. Let her know the preference and color.
-camis for fitting jackets. Coats would require sweaters, which you should probably provide
-Shoes
-nude underwear. Most models know this but occasionally you get the crazy panties or red bra. Kinda distracting especially if you are fitting anything semi transparent and you will need to review pics later.

Take photos
you will need to take front, side, and back photos. Assure her you will crop her head out (because you will! it is up to you to protect her privacy). Make sure to photograph any problem areas so the patternmaker can get a better sense of what is occurring.

Have fun!
Keep it light and friendly. Don’t bring your drama and hang ups. She is not your therapist. This is an important relationship so make sure you keep it professional.