How to Extend Your Size Range
Extending existing size ranges to be more inclusive is more than a trend. It is a new directive in inclusivity that it here to stay. Even if you think that your brand can’t do this, or this is not your customer base, just be mindful that you will more than likely be called upon to provide a wide range of sizes at some point, so it’s worth considering.
Where do I start?
This is the most frequently asked question that I get when clients reach out to me to help with their inclusive sizing. It seems like it is a bit of a mystery wrapped up in a conundrum. There are no guidelines or books on how to go about doing this.
Do you want to know why?
Well, there are a couple of reasons, but the main one to keep in mind is this….Extending size ranges looks different for everyone. I help out many brands with their plus sizes/extended sizing. Every brand/company/designer does it differently because we have parameters to keep in mind: existing size ranges, customer fit initiatives, and personalized sizing requirements for the larger sizes, to name a few.
When you get in touch with me, I start with questions like the parameters above. I’ll want to see your existing size chart, know about your current sample size, understand what your sizing goals are and get a sense of the sample size you will be working with. From here we come up with a plan that works for your customer range.
If you make your own patterns and need help with the drafting of the extended size range, I will be requesting the graded file of the style(s) we are working on to assess where the pattern needs to start from.
What you need to be prepared with
You will need to have an idea of what your fit sample size will be. We can discuss it further, but typically for extended sizes, the fit sample size tends to be around a 20 or 22 in US sizing. Yes, we will be grading bigger. However, I’ve just found that the higher up in the size charts that we go for a sample size, the more variance you will find in bust, waist and hip measurements that do not align to your size chart when you go to look for a model. You really need consistency. If you are working with a professional fit model agency, most plus size models will fall within a size 18-22 range for womenswear. Personally, I think you will also find more dress form availability within this range, especially if you buy used.
The next thing you need to discuss is if you have any parameters for measurements that you want to hit, or sizes that you want to make sure are on your chart, then this will be a factor in your new size range. For instance, you may want to ensure that your largest size includes a 72” hip.
Lastly, be prepared to have an overlap of sizes, especially if you are making home sewing patterns, this is critical for the two ranges in case someone falls between sizes. If you are producing garments, we need to consider how the two ranges will relate, but differ.
What will you get
Once we define the parameters, you will get a first draft of a pattern to try on your plus size fit model. From here, the same process that you went through with your existing size range comes into play. The only additional consideration will be how this new sample relates to your existing sample size. From here it is 100% a designers prerogative. Let me repeat- 100% your design prerogative. Don’t worry about formulas, numbers, etc. This new size should either look like a larger version of your existing range, or deviate as you feel necessary for your customer base.
The technical expectations of two size ranges
We need to create some kind of coherency between the two ranges that make sense for your customer. For this, I focus on chest, waist and hip measurements- the measurements that are on your size chart. Depending on your fit initiative, this could look like a logical increase on your size chart from your existing brand, or it could mean a larger bust, waist or hip from your existing range. However, this is where it stops. From this point onwards, we are working on a new pattern with creative freedom at the ready. Focusing on aligning all measurements is a futile effort and rarely works out for a perfect alignment between the size ranges without sacrificing the fit.
The new size range should relate, but it should not be the equivalentof grading up to plus sizes. This does not often result in a superior product for your brand.
Why I specialize in Plus Sizes
Every large company/retailer that I have worked with during my 20 year garment industry run has offered two size ranges to be inclusive. I know what works, what doesn’t, and what to expect. Plus sizes are unique in their requirements and need a special eye towards proportion and functionality. This starts with numbers, but does not rely on them 100%. It requires a point of view and a bit of bravery to break rules.
What do I mean by breaking the rules? Let me give you an example: I was working on a style that was a semi cropped top, super narrow shoulders and large balloon sleeves with gathering at the top. For the size 8 sample, it was fun and trendy. When the size 20 fit sample was tried on, well, I’ve never used this adjective before, but the model looked like a circle. Seriously. Crop top, round puffy sleeves. It was not flattering and no one would want to buy this. The numbers aligned between the two samples as they should, but visually it did not work. Working with the designer, we deviated on the numbers for this style and chose to prioritize proportions. Crisis averted and the larger size customer loved the modified style.
Be Brave!
Numbers make a lot of sense. They are logical and easily explainable to customers that have questions. However, as I’ve mentioned, this does no service to the overall fit. It is your role as the designer/brand leader to say “this is what we are doing, this is who we will fit and this is how I want it to look. You have done this for your existing brand and now we are just extending your creative point of view.
Do not be afraid to say- I think my larger size customer may need a different sleeve shape, or perhaps a longer inseam in a short. Heck, let’s make her a little saucier and drop the neckline lower if that is who your customer is.
Extending your size range is a mash up of numbers, but mostly a creative vision.