Do You Really Need a Tech Pack?
If you have spent any time in the garment industry then you have, no doubt, heard about tech packs in some way. Maybe you have been asked for one so you can be given a quote. Perhaps you found someone who you are working with and they offer this service, but you don’t know exactly what it is. Or your pattern maker tells you that a tech pack is a must for your project, but you aren’t sure if you really need a tech pack.
Spoiler alert- you do need a tech pack. I know, you were probably hoping I’ll give you an out. Nope, not today. But rest assured, it’s not that big of a deal to do and it will only help you out in the long run. Tech packs can take many forms and be used in different ways. There is no absolute correct way and it’s all about what works for your brand and keeping the processes simple.
What is a tech pack
A tech pack, in the simplest terms, is an instruction manual for your product that you will share with others that will work on your project. It details changes made to your garment throughout the product development process, clearly defines standards, lists components for what goes into your garment and answers most questions that anyone working on your product may have.
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When you are interviewing manufacturers they will want to see your tech pack because it’s the simplest way to communicate what you are intending to produce. For instance, you can tell them over the phone that it's a “simple t shirt”. But when they finally collect all the information over time, and both yourself and the manufacturer are frustrated with not understanding one another, it comes down to it that your “simple tshirt” requires 4 different machine operations, screen printing (which is outsourced) and heat transfer labels that they don’t have the capability of doing.
A tech pack puts everything in writing so there are no surprises.
Who needs a tech pack
Anyone producing anything needs a tech pack. Even at its most basic level, you need a record of what your product is and what makes it up in terms of measurements, construction, components and techniques.
Having a tech pack will ensure that your standards and expectations are communicated. Allowing a capable manufacturer to make your garment is fine until the day they don’t have capacity and outsource to a third party that only uses their best judgment. This happened to a client that worked for many years without tech packs and had to learn the hard way ($$$) to clearly define the project's parameters. Production had to be redone, deadlines were not met, and they had to go and rethink their own processes so this would not happen again.
What a tech pack can be
I’m a big proponent of less is more when it comes to tech packs. The truth of the matter is that no one wants to read anything more than they absolutely have to. We live in a society that is based on short video clips that are designed to be shorter and shorter each day (I thank you for taking the time to actually read this!). I design tech packs so the minimal amount of information the factory needs is present and you have a record of what goes into the garment. That’s it.
However as your business grows, so does your tech pack. You will find that more information needs to be provided so everyone is clear. For instance, you may need more sketches detailing exactly how a garment is measured or folded, or you want to add more measurement points of reference in your specs so your new development can be consistent in fit. A tech pack is a tool to be not only used by your factory, but by you as well.
Let’s say you are a tiny made to order business doing all the work yourself and you get an order for a complex item that you haven’t made in awhile. The sample that you reference is missing and the order is for a customer who ordered the same thing before and expects the exact same product. If you had a tech pack, it could be referenced for how you put something together, even as a list, like: “internal seams ⅜” overlock, bottom hem is ¾” turnback with coverstitch, all seams edge stitched on outside to left of seam”. The added bonus of setting up a system when you are a tiny business is that documentation makes it easier to pass work off to others as you grow.
On the other hand, large retailers typically have extensive tech packs, but this is out of necessity. When a substantially large investment is made for a singular garment, all details must be accounted for. There is no room for creative interpretation. Oftentimes many different parties will be working together on a tech pack before sending it to a manufacturer.
These manufacturers have people whose job it is to review tech packs and follow up with the factory on all the details. It’s a highly complex ecosystem.
If you don’t think your tech pack will be used, read this:
A client came to me when their brand was experiencing lots of fit inconsistencies. I developed tech packs for them in my minimal fashion so the factory was crystal clear on expectations and could easily check things on their end. The client insisted the factory would not use the tech packs and chose not to proceed further.
Yes, giving a tech pack to a factory that is not used to receiving them can be a total curveball. But it’s up to you as the designer/brand manager to keep checking in and referencing the tech pack when the factory has any questions so they understand that all the information they need is at their fingertips. This may take time, but anyone who wants business will adapt and eventually appreciate everything being detailed.
Even for your own processes, you should not be searching through old emails to find out what colorway you ordered last season, or emailing your pattern maker to find out the length of a dress you did two years ago. Anything that happens to your garment should be recorded in your tech pack.
The tech pack is a working and constantly evolving document that is never one and done.
If you are interested in getting tech packs made for your business, reach out today! Happy to help