Making Tech Packs Work For Your Apparel Business
A tech pack is not a one size fits all type of document. Not at all. I like to think of tech packs as being fluid and customizable for specific business processes, taking into consideration the scale in which they operate. And just like an instruction manual, the likelihood of someone reading it cover to cover is slim unless we engineer it to be user friendly and context appropriate.
There seems to be a misconception that a tech pack must be a massive tome and it should encompass every possible detail in a garment. I mean, yeah, it can be. But in all reality, that type of document tends to be the least functional. On the other hand, I’ve seen “tech packs” that are essentially just a sketch and tell me virtually nothing about a garment. So where is happy medium and how do you make tech packs work for your business?
Establish what is important to you
If you don’t need a page that details all the components that make up your garment because it's always one fabrication, then don’t do it. If you are ok with the factory folding the final production garments however works best for them, then don’t worry about creating diagrams. But if keeping track of your measurements and construction techniques are vital, then make sure these are covered.
Tech packs are a tool for your own use, so make sure that what is in it is meaningful to you.
How will a tech pack be used
A pattern maker will need a different section of the tech pack then your factory will. A grader will only need the graded spec page. A factory may request a QA page. Your tech pack set up depends entirely on what the professionals you work with will need and what records that you want to keep. You may only need a construction page for your own reference with a sketch.
The important thing to keep in mind is to always keep it simple. No one wants to comb through pages and pages of material and endless measurements to get to what they need that is essential for your project.
The 4 stages of a tech pack
The key thing to not feeling overwhelmed when it comes to setting up tech packs for your apparel business is to understand that it will not be done all at once. A tech pack is a working document done in different, and manageable stages.
1) Development
Your development tech pack should consist of just one page. That’s it. This will be given to your pattern maker and can be provided to manufacturers when you are looking for quotes with the caveat that it is not yet final and should work be confirmed you will provide a complete tech pack.
I recently was pleasantly surprised when a sewing pattern company approached me for help with patterns and gave me a tech pack. The tech pack was exactly what it should be- a sketch of the front and back of the garment, the type of fabric it was being designed for, what the sample size needed was, and a couple of measurements detailing approximated lengths they were thinking of. That’s it! Pretty simple and then I was left to figure out the details because I have a better understanding of what the specifics needed to be.
When it comes to product development, no one expects you to have all the answers. If you are working with a tech designer for this part, please remind them to also keep measurements simple for the start as things will change quickly from here out.
2) Pre-production
Pre-production tech packs should be focused on recording changes and solidifying how a garment goes together. At this point you want to start including spec pages that detail how the sample measured and what the new measurements need to be. Details should be provided on how seams should be finished and different construction elements that your factory would need to know.
This information should be provided to your pattern maker and sample maker to communicate expectations and to verify what you are detailing is correct/doable.
When the fit is approved A graded spec will need to be provided to your grader, or if you do not have this capability, a grader can also generate a final measurement spec of all the sizes for you to be included as a graded spec page.
3) Production
When the fit is finalized, construction agreed upon, and your materials and components are in place, it’s time to start wrapping up your tech pack for your factory.
At this point it’s best to hide or remove the spec page that detailed out measurement changes. No one needs this anymore and it could cause confusion. The factory will only need the graded spec page for measurement purposes.
A page detailing all the materials and trims that go into your garment should be included so the factory knows exactly what to expect. This information should include the vendor it is coming from so you have a record of it later.
You may consider adding a cutting ticket and folding and packing methods as well.
4) Post production
Hopefully at this stage you don’t have to change any information, but it’s always a good idea to review the final production goods and compare it to the tech pack. If something doesn’t match or you feel you need additional information for your records, make sure to add it now while it is fresh in your head.
This may seem like an unnecessary step, but if you find yourself repeating production of the same garment again, you will need to be consistent.
Conclusion
The most important thing is that you make tech packs your own. Just because someone tells you that you should have 10 pages of documentation does not necessarily mean that you should. Keep your information clear and concise for your records and the professionals that you work with.