What is a Grade Rule?

Maybe I already lost you with the mention of grade rules. It’s one of those fun technical terms. If you have a sizing chart then you have a grade rule of sorts.
In a tangible sense, a grade rule is basically spreadsheet that lists out the incremental jumps between sizes for specific points of measure. This predetermined formula is then applied to corresponding points of measure for all sizes.
For example, here is your sizing chart that lists the chest circumference.

The grade rule will list out how much the chest will increase or decrease in size. This is key for a grader as we study the differences or jumps between sizes. This is how it would look expressed as a grade rule:

But if you are just starting out, do you need this?

Some people will say, absolutely that the designer needs to provide this. However, I find that most start ups have no idea how to set it up beyond knowing they need “X” amount of sizes. Chances are if I ask them to provide the end result is going to be a bit of a mess and not as functional as it should be. It’s not their fault, they need some advice and experience in finding the right sizes for their customers. I have a lot of clients that leave the grade rules up to me. They give me their sizing chart that encompasses only chest, waist and hips and we are good to go. They trust me with consistency. Quite frankly, I like this the best, it gives me freedom and flexibility to do what I think is best for the style and their target customer.

However, once I have graded quite a few patterns for my clients that’s when I get to the point where it’s time to set up a grade rule.

Let me give you a recent situation:
A client that I have been working with since forever passed me a style similar to something that she had done many years back. I referenced the old file for what I did for a long sleeve opening grade. Hmm, it looked like I should have done it slightly different, now in hindsight. I checked another recent file for a long sleeve grade and I graded this one even a bit more different (so much for consistency, right!) . Honestly neither was a wrong approach and would not affect the overall fit. I’m probably the only weirdo that would be able to tell. But now I’m at a crossroads of what to follow. Too many options and or grey areas lead to inconsistency and it only takes one customer with too much time on their hands to point out the mistake. It was time to set up a grade rule that would create a definitive answer.

For instance, here’s how the sleeve opening grading varied and this is what I decided on as per blouse 3:

The Importance of Standards
The bigger you grow the more important it is to create these standards. You don’t want to have one style grading lengthwise more than another similar style. The biggest and smallest customers will be confused about the proportions.

As a grader, I work with many clients, each with their own unique sizing. Remembering everyone’s grade rules in my head is asking for a lot. My brain gets awfully tired. In a case like above I needed a grade rule chart to refer to so all sleeve opening grading for her brand will be the same. A grade rule leaves no question as to what the standards are.

How to set up a grade rule

First, let’s start off with the major measurements points. These are the ones listed on the sizing chart that you provide your customers- generally the chest, waist and hips, as I had initially mentioned. This is how it looks as a grade rule:

The points of measure that the customer does not see leaves the interpretation more open to what you want your standards to be and are subject to design preferences.

Here is a list of the basic points of measure that should be standardized:
-Body length
-Chest
-Waist
-Hip
-Sleeve length
-Neck width
-Front neck drop
-Across shoulder
-Front rise/ back rise
-Leg opening
-Skirt length

Optional measurements
Technically you could jam your grade rule with so many point of measure that it could almost go on forever. But please don’t do this. Your grader will hate you.
Yes, if you want to maintain a pocket position a certain way, I get it. No problem. The problem arises when I get a graded spec passed that has too many points of measure (POM’s), but the grading does not make sense.

For example, the following combination is too much:

-Front body length

-Center front length from neck

Oftentimes when I see this they contradict each other when the actual grading starts. Keep it simple.

How to Prepare for Grade Rule Development

A grade rule can be a great tool for consistency, but it I feel that it is something that grows with your company. When you are starting out, make it easy for people to work with you. As you get more comfortable with who your customer is and you have a good relationship with your grader, start to standardize more points. There is no point in creating a grade rule if you have no clue as to how it functions and are using it as a point of control. Yes, it should be contolled but no grader or factory wants a new designer that is only cutting 20 pieces coming at them with 50 POM’s that need to be check and cross checked. We probably won’t like you very much. Keep in mind the product and the crucial points of measure that you would like to maintain. Start off simple and add as you grow to tighten up the standards.